2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer with I6 engine : battery removal & replacement with the I6 engine
How to remove and replace a battery in a 2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer with the I6 engine.
tools needed :
8 mm socket
10 mm deep well socket
10 mm regular socket
10 mm wrench
13 mm deep well socket
Ratchets and extensions for each drive size
battery posts : 8mm socket or wrench (socket was easier for me)
battery box bar, two bolts and one nut : 10mm
The rubber wedge/bracket in the bottom of the battery box, firewall side is one 13 MM nut, use a 13 MM deep well socket.
To remove the battery :
disconnect battery, negative side first, then the positive side.
Take loose the 10 mm bolts holding the metal bar in place that goes across the top of the battery box. The 10mm socket works good for the bolts on the ends, that go into the body. The 10 mm wrench is for taking the nut off in the center of the bar, where the bracket drops down, by the battery tray. Once all bolts are removed, gently wiggle the bar out of place.
Un-snap the battery box from the battery tray on the engine side. Wiggle the box up, pay attention to the cooling hose from the front clip and the holes where the battery posts stick out, to wiggle the box up. You can slide the cooling hose off if you want, but I just lay it up and over out of the way.
On the firewall side of the battery, at the bottom is a rubber wedge shaped piece, it is held in place by a 13 mm nut. Use the 13 mm deep well socket to remove it. Once the nut is off, wiggle the battery around and take the wedge piece up.
The bottom of the battery has a lip, that slides under the edge of the battery tray toward the front of the vehicle. Slide the battery towards the firewall, just slightly. If everything is happy, the battery should come out straight up.
Have a plan for where you are going to put the battery when you pull it up and out, as it is sort of awkward to handle and somewhat heavy.
To replace the battery with a new one :
place battery back in tray, with the posts facing the firewall. Slide the battery lip under the edge of the battery tray. Place the rubber wedge with the widest side facing the battery, you will see how it only fits that way into the tray. Put the wedge in snug against the battery. Using the 13 mm deep well socket, snug down the nut, do not over tighten!
Place the battery box back on battery, this will take a little wiggling to make happen. Remember the cooling hose if you took it off! The battery posts snap into the box a bit, so you may have to pull slightly on the box to get it started to slide back over the posts, the posts will pop back out in their holes if all is well. Remember to snap the box back into the battery tray on the engine side.
For me, I went ahead and hooked the battery cables back up to the posts using the 8mm socket. Then I made sure it would crank before I put the bar back on, etc.. Positive side first, then the negative.
NOTE : The reason to put the positive on first during assembly is to prevent accidental shorting of the battery in your face in case you accidentally contact the frame with the wrench. (thanks to CowboyTrukr on Chevytalk)
To put the bar that goes across the battery box back on, line up the holes on the ends, get the bracket on the bolt coming out of the battery tray lined up. Get the 10 mm bolts started on the ends, get the 10 mm nut started at the battery tray, then snug ’em all down.
Now do the wiggle test on everything, the cables, the bar, etc.. The box will still wiggle a little bit.
Remove all tools, etc., and close the hood.
Thanks… to users CowboyTrukr & 2plus2 on Chevytalk for additional information to make this article safer.